The Panasonic AG-1980 & AG-5710, rebuilt to outlast new. Fair warning — this is a long read, because doing it right is a long process.
Back in the mid ’80s I used to work at the Panasonic factory in Secaucus, NJ – in their Industrial Service Division (called at the time MESCO), where I repaired one-tube and three-tube color video cameras, ½" VCRs (VHS) and ¾" VCRs and VTRs. Their AG-6200 and AG-6300, along with their flagship AG-6800, were par for the course. They also had editors that I worked on — the NV-8500 was their flagship editor at the time. The NV-8950 was an industrial VHS VCR with trick heads that used crystals and high voltage, allowing you to search without seeing lines in the picture — a first for back then.
All of these decks were workhorses, built extremely well and designed to last. The same holds true for the AG-1980 and the AG-5710. Both machines are nearly identical, the exception being that the AG-5710 does not have a TV tuner.
I’ve been repairing these commercial decks since shortly after their inception. I personally know the AG-1980 & AG-5710 better than anyone else – like the back of my hand, tied behind my back! Let’s get one thing straight: I am not cheap, not by a long shot. Having said that, I also stand behind my work. In the case of repairs, for six months - and if you have your unit bullet proofed, an incredible TWO YEARS. No one does that, period.
Good questions. First — yes, I can just repair these units. Figure on between $450 and $650, depending on the hours that have been put on the mechanics. That price can climb in a hurry, but I’ll always tell you what you’re up against before any work begins.
So, if you’re just wanting your unit repaired — yep, I can do that!
That said, remember this: every one of these units has bad capacitors. They don’t all go bad at the same time. Some units only have a few that are currently bad or going bad. But in every case, there are capacitors that have already begun to leak, even if only slightly.
It’s only a matter of time before they all go bad and start leaking heavily. When that happens, the dielectric that leaks out starts eating away at circuit traces and nearby components — and it doesn’t take long. After a while the board itself can become so damaged that the unit may no longer be repairable.
I have repaired a ton of these units. Some have many capacitors already leaking, others are just beginning to — but in every single instance, they've begun. All you have to do is remove a couple and look underneath: that's when you'll see the tell-tale sign, a small amount of liquid, showing they've already started to leak. Expensive, yes — but well worth the investment.
New to ‘bad caps’? Here’s the full rundown →
First, the mechanics are removed, and then I strip them completely down and remove all the old, dried-out grease. That takes time — the only things left in place are the two guides and the audio/control head. It’s pretty much bare metal. You have to do that to get all the old grease out.
The black grease used — referred to as Molytone — breaks down with age and loses its viscosity. You’ll find that all other shops simply apply another coat on top of what’s already there. One place in particular uses the wrong viscosity grease and plasters it everywhere, on top of what’s there. Anyone in the know knows you never mix viscosities. After a while, the grease becomes even stiffer.
Molytone’s main component is mineral oil. When the grease breaks down — typically around ten years, give or take — the mineral oil seeps out and the solid components are left behind. That, plus dissimilar metals, makes the grease hard and can actually freeze parts together so they’ll no longer move, creating further problems and ultimately, a non-working machine. So it’s absolutely essential to remove all the old grease, then meticulously clean each and every part before applying the new grease.
Two different greases are used in these machines: Molytone, the exact same grease used at the factory, and a rare, special proprietary grease. Both were difficult and expensive to obtain. That second grease doesn’t break down, period — so it lasts near indefinitely, and it doesn’t migrate like all the others. Both were recently purchased with expiration dates years into the future. The factory’s original Molytone is well over 20 years old now and long past its end of life.
Removing and replacing this grease takes time — lots and lots of it. You have to clean every part, washer, screw, gear and shaft: roughly 40 parts on the top side and 30 or so on the bottom of the chassis, along with washers, springs and clips — everything except the audio/control head and the two guide posts. The metal chassis and every part is cleaned until it’s spotless. It’s a long, drawn-out process that you cannot rush.
Then it comes time to reassemble the mechanics. I use New Old Stock (NOS) parts — genuinely new parts, not used, not ‘pulls’ from other machines. I obtained hundreds of them at great effort and great expense. No one has these parts; they’ve long since been depleted, and I’ve purchased nearly all that remains.
When Bullet Proofing, not every part is replaced — only the key parts that need it, based on the wear of the machine being serviced and my considered professional opinion. There is no limit to what I’ll do to make your unit last. We’re talking over 30 separate parts for the mechanical chassis, in large quantities, all stocked for these decks — not to mention the thousands of new capacitors also on the shelf.
Next come the electronics. The motherboard, along with all the attached boards, wires and harnesses — and the power supply — are completely removed. Then every peripheral circuit board comes out, and each and every electrolytic capacitor is replaced, on every board, including the tuner (on the AG-1980; the AG-5710 has none). The TBC, the Audio 2 board and the tuner also carry surface-mounted electrolytic capacitors (SMDs), and those are all replaced too.
Add them all up and you’re looking at about 245 capacitors replaced inside the AG-1980. Earlier models, and the AG-5710, have just a few less.
We do not use cheap Chinese capacitors, like all the rest. We use only long-life, high-quality capacitors made in Japan — so she’ll last another couple of decades and beyond. There are plenty of Tom, Dick and Harrys out there, along with other shady shops, that don’t replace all the capacitors — you’re lucky if they replace ten of them, and I kid you not. Even the rare shop that claims to replace them all (I haven’t seen one yet) uses the cheapest, dirtiest caps money can buy — from China, of course. Money is all they’re concerned about, sad to say. That is not the case here at AVRepair.
After all the capacitors are replaced on every circuit board and the power supply, each board is gone over by hand under a high-power magnifier. Any cold solder joints are reflowed with fresh solder — another common problem. Once the completed boards are reinstalled, the freshly rebuilt mechanics go back in, and the wires are dressed just like the factory did it.
Finally come the alignments. Both mechanical and electrical alignments are checked and adjusted as necessary. Once complete, she’ll run better, quieter, and stand the test of time. No one tears down the mechanics and removes all the grease. Not one. And no one will stand behind their work for two years — let alone one year, or even six months.
Make the clients happy, and they’ll spread the word.
The only thing the Bullet Proofing service does not cover is the video heads. Everything else is included in our Two Year Warranty. Should your unit need new heads, we’ll need to source another deck in gently-used condition — at the time of writing, typically $250 to $400, and subject to change. As time goes by, that price will only increase.
Something else that sets us apart: you are allowed to remove the top cover. Most places slap a sticker on the outside warning that your warranty is voided if you take the cover off. That’s silly. When you get back a deck that’s been Bullet Proofed by yours truly, I encourage you to take the top off and inspect my work. You’ll see a night-and-day difference between my work and anyone else’s — period.
Try to find that anywhere else.
Are any and all problems with your AG-1980 or AG-5710 covered under the Bullet Proofing service? Absolutely. No matter the problem, or how many problems your deck has, once we’re finished your machine will perform flawlessly for years to come — it’s what we do.
I don’t do piece work. I don’t have quotas. I’m not paid by the hour. There is only one electronic technician here, and that is me. That means two things: you get me, every single time — and it means I’m slow. But that’s what lets me take my time and do things right, the way you’re supposed to.
Did you know? Most shops have maybe one halfway-decent tech — but you never get him. You get whoever’s lowest on the totem pole: the kid still figuring out which end of the soldering iron gets hot, practicing on your machine. A scare tactic? Not in the least. It’s more true than you’d like to believe.
To Bullet Proof an AG-1980 or AG-5710, the total comes to
$1,950
plus $30 shipping — $1,980 all in.
That is expensive, for sure. But if you want it done right — that’s what it costs. I’ve Bullet Proofed hundreds of these very decks for universities across the nation (including the University of Florida, back when they used them), along with many law-enforcement facilities, tape-duplication and transfer houses nationwide, and countless professionals who swear by these machines.
Prefer to buy a Bullet Proofed unit outright, direct from me? The cost is $3,495, including our Two Year Warranty. These machines start with low hours to begin with. Whether you buy one from me or have your own rebuilt, for all intents and purposes these decks are new — and they perform better than new. Guaranteed.
Typical turnaround for Bullet Proofing is about two to three months, start to finish, give or take. If that’s the kind of service you’re after and you don’t mind the wait — well, you’ve found the right place. If you’re looking for quick or cheap? Well, good luck with that...
These decks are worth packing right — all the insurance in the world won’t replace one. Before you ship, read our full Packing & Shipping Guide for box sizes, cushioning, the styrofoam trick, and how to tape it up so it arrives safe.
Ready to Bullet Proof your AG-1980 or AG-5710? Fill out our quick request form and we’ll take it from there.
Click HERE to Request Service